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Guide to Descenders

Descender : What is it?

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Descenders are climbing tools used to regulate friction for braking when a climber is descending using a fixed rope.  They connect the climber's harness to the rope he uses to climb up or down. Descenders are commonly used in abseiling, belaying, and rescue operations. 

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Types Of Descenders

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Kinds of Descenders include the following:

Self-braking Descenders

Self-braking Descenders provide exceptional comfort and safety when moving and traversing down using fixed ropes.

They have self-braking systems.
They regulate the speed of the descent by requiring one hand to hold the free end of the rope.
They are used with single ropes only.
They are further classified into two subtypes: belaying and single rope Self-braking Descenders.

Belaying Self-braking Descenders


Belaying Self-braking Descenders are used for belaying and descending.
They work well on inclined surfaces.
They are easy and simple to use.
They brake immediately during a fall.
Some models have anti-panic functions where the cams lock the rope.
Most models used for hauling are reversible.

Single rope Self-braking Descenders

Single rope Self-braking Descenders are the most common descenders.
They are used with single climbing ropes only.
They have self-braking systems that work when the handles are released.

Most models feature spring clips that allow the insertion of the rope from the harness without removing the descenders.

Most models have replaceable friction bobbins and cams.

Standard Descenders

Standard Descenders do not have self-braking systems.
They are further classified into three subtypes: figure-eight, variable friction, and knot passing friction descenders.

Figure-eight Descenders

Figure-eight Descenders can be used on single or double climbing ropes.
They have square shapes that prevent the rope from tangling and the lark's head from knotting.
They have small holes that can be used with thinner ropes.
Most models are aluminum forged, offering high strength and durability.

Variable Friction Descenders


Variable Friction Descenders distributes heat and friction evenly to preserve the rope and prevent damage.

They do not cause the rope to twist or tangle.
Most models have adjustable bars used for getting the desired amount of friction.

Knot-passing Friction Descenders


Knot-passing Friction Descenders are used for lowering heavy loads over long distances.
They turn the rope in various ways for adjustable braking power.

They have a unique shape that allows the insertion and passage of knots formed by joining several ropes together.

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Choosing Descenders (Buying Tips)

Rope type: Choose a descender compatible with the type of climbing rope you intend to use. A descender works with only a limited range of climbing rope types. Choose a self-braking descender if you want to use a single rope. A single or double rope works well with a figure-eight descender.

Automatic braking system:
For added security, choose a descender with an automatic braking system. This descender is ideal for beginner climbers, as it only requires the releasing of a handle to prevent a fall.

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Sources

Petzl
Planet Fear
 

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What Is It?
Types Of Descenders
Choosing Descenders (Buying Tips)
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